The rows of storerooms down both sides of the corridor contained supplies of cereals, oil and wine in enormous terracotta jars (pithoi): in the last storeroom on the right there was a device for collecting the oil that flowed from the receptacles.

One enters the old town of Réthimno, surrounded by walls, through a late 16C Venetian gate. A slim minaret there marks the site of the domed former Nerandzé Mosque, as well as two other Venetian monuments: the monumental Arimondi Fountain (1629) with its three Corinthian columns, and the loggia or Exchange (early 17C) with massive pillars and rustic stonework. It was turned into a mosque by the Turks and is now a library.

The little abandoned village of Arádena, 4km from Anópoli and 16km from Sfakiá, marks the beginning of Arádena Gorge. There is a stunning view just before the metal bridge spanning it. The magnificent descent of this striking gorge is for experienced walkers and includes negotiating an amazing sheer drop from a rock cliff (there are steps and ropes to help).

The church of Ágios Fanoúrios, which belongs to Varsamónero Monastery, was built in the Italian style. It has two parallel aisles preceded by a narthex. The older aisle contains some remarkable frescoes (14C) depicting scenes from the Life of the Virgin and various saints, in particular John the Baptist; other frescoes (15C) decorate the righthand aisle and the narthex. According to tradition, El Greco stayed in this monastery to study the frescoes and the famous icons by Damaskinos now displayed in St Catherine's Church in Herakleion.