One enters the old town of Réthimno, surrounded by walls, through a late 16C Venetian gate. A slim minaret there marks the site of the domed former Nerandzé Mosque, as well as two other Venetian monuments: the monumental Arimondi Fountain (1629) with its three Corinthian columns, and the loggia or Exchange (early 17C) with massive pillars and rustic stonework. It was turned into a mosque by the Turks and is now a library.

The Minoan (2000-1400 BC) ruins here, as at Phaistos, occupy a magnificent site (its ancient name is unknown) overlooking Messarás Plain and Bay. The ruins include a palace, which may have been the residence of a dignitary or a relative of the princes of Phaistos, and a Mycenaean Village (1375-1100 BC) in which the agora was bordered by a portico with shops.

The old town was built from the 13C onwards by the Venetians, who enclosed it within a wall that was rebuilt in the 16C to the plans of the great engineer Sanmicheli; a few fragments of the wall are still standing. Don't miss the Kastéli district, which was the site of ancient Kydonia, a rival of Knossós, and the Merchants' District which houses the Naval Museum (historic documents and model ships) and contains old Venetian houses (some doorways have sculpted coats of arms and mottoes).

The little abandoned village of Arádena, 4km from Anópoli and 16km from Sfakiá, marks the beginning of Arádena Gorge. There is a stunning view just before the metal bridge spanning it. The magnificent descent of this striking gorge is for experienced walkers and includes negotiating an amazing sheer drop from a rock cliff (there are steps and ropes to help).